Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 8:48 am-
You can't avoid all tourists. France has been a tourist destination since Caesar published his Gallic Wars, and not all tourists are dumb - many (like thee & me) are quite discriminating! However, if you just want to avoid trampling hordes, I have found serenity and awe at Mont Saint Michel (notwithstanding the guided tour) and Chartres Cathedral. For lovely countryside and quaint little villages, you can't do wrong by trying the upper Dordogne, Lot and Tarn valleys in the south.
As for good restaurants . there are simply too many to choose from. One trick I used when driving through the countryside was to stop at any auberge that had more than one car outside with Belgian licence plates (red) since the Belgians are typically known as connaisseurs of good food (and they tend to favour big portions too). Enjoy!