Principles of universal design and cohousing, as well as economic necessity, spur green housing project in Oaxaca,
Mexico, for aging North Americans
Alvin Starkman M.A., LL.B.
At first blush David Hornick appears to be the most unlikely candidate to be spear-heading a housing development in the state of Oaxaca, one of the southernmost and poorest states in
Mexico; his Spanish is sparse to be generous, until earlier this year he had never ventured to this part of the country, he’s never designed or built a home, and he’s lived virtually all his life in Schenectady, New York, leading a more or less typical, middle-class Jewish existence.
But Hornick had a vision, born of other life experiences which made him more qualified than most to proceed with the project. “One thing about me,” he explained on his first trip to Oaxaca, “is that once I decide to do something, you know it’s already been thoroughly considered – and then there’s no stopping me.”
For more than three decades Hornick, a graduate of Cornell University and the University of Pennsylvania School of Medicine has been a geriatrician, diagnosing and treating exclusively aging Americans … through home visits. He and wife Roberta, his partner in the medical practice, have learned that where and how we traditionally live is rarely conducive to graceful and easy aging from a position of economic security.
The answer, as I’ve come to conclude over the past several months of tutelage from Hornick, at least for creating a blueprint for the solution, is to import some of the characteristics of collaborative housing (cohousing) and as many key elements as practicable of universal design, into a region of the world where the concerns can best be addressed – Oaxaca … for starters. And that’s exactly what Hornick’s done.
Collaborative housing
Cohousing communities are usually designed as a series of attached or single-family homes along one or more pedestrian walkways or clustered around a courtyard. While the concept originated in
Denmark, since the early 1980s it has been promoted in the U.S., and since then similar communities using the basic concept have developed throughout other countries in the Western World such as Canada,
France,
Germany and
New Zealand.
Each community includes a larger building facility, a “common house,” constituting the social center of the complex where neighbors can meet, dine, attend to activities which traditionally are not required on a daily basis (i.e. laundry), and even host guests in small apartments. The latter two points have implications in terms of minimizing overall cost for each resident, since space not normally occupied on a daily basis is omitted from individual homes.
While in the purest of models residents actively participate in the design of their own neighborhood, in this case prospective members are spared that effort – Hornick has devoted his entire adult life assessing the needs of Americans as their stages in life change. Accordingly, substantial progress for the Oaxaca project has already been advanced, and in fact there is a website in place, addressing those interested in pursing a lifestyle change in the foreseeable future. Hornick's mexicommunity website currently includes photographs of the two proposed tracts of land, site plans and architectural drawings of the two models of home.
Hornick prefers to avoid commonly used terms such as intentional or collaborative housing, as well as cohousing, in favor of simply “neighborhoods” and “communities.” The former import the idea of consensus decision-making, which he does not believe is workable. He does envision, however, a “resident council” (perhaps similar to a condominium’s board of directors) to assist with suggestions relating to the neighborhood. This indicates that his approach is realistic and his model is feasible. The project does require, he stresses, participants’ acceptance of, and working together to promote, certain basic goals: energy efficiency; respect for the environment; the utilization of locally produced “green” materials (in construction and otherwise); affordability; and universal design which enables people of all ages to live comfortably and safely in their own homes and neighborhoods and delay or avoid transfer to institutional care.
Universal design
Universal design (UD) can be defined as the creation of products (including communication systems) and environments (including landscapes) which are usable by all people, to the greatest extent possible, without the need for adaptation or specialized design. It has often been associated with exclusively addressing the elderly and infirmed. And in fact there should be no doubt that within the context of the Oaxaca project the concept will be extremely attractive to those in their fifties and older, many winding down their careers and embarking upon a new phase of life, “retirement.” But the project’s use of universal design addresses more – compatibility with a natural progression of functional changes throughout the lifespan, according to Hornick.
So how does UD address all ages and levels of capability, and thereby make the project attractive to families at every life stage? Hornick explains:
“We’re all born helpless and short. We can’t reach most light switches until we are about four years old, long after we can stand and walk. Functional capability improves (normally) up to our mid- to late-teenage years, then begins to decline.
“Light switches can be lowered to three feet to be reachable by children as well as people in wheelchairs with limited shoulder mobility. Round door knobs can be replaced by lever handles that accommodate arthritic hands, but also permit people encumbered with arms full of groceries to open a door with a free elbow. Steps can be replaced by ramps, even at the entrance to a home. Lighting intensity can be adjustable to accommodate vision as it dims with age. Shower stalls can be built without that little step-up-and-over. And there are literally a hundred or more other alternate designs and products available in the marketplace which can be considered, which do not detract from either ‘normal’ functionality or aesthetics of the home.”
Hornick has been consulted on seniors’ apartment retrofitting projects involving production of state-of-the-art adaptive design prototypes. The Oaxaca project enables his wealth of knowledge and experience to be put into action using a slightly different orientation.
We’re in an era when an increasing number of individuals and couples in North America are becoming disillusioned with the work-until-you-drop mentality, the less-than-optimum environments in which they’ve felt compelled to live and raise their families, increasing inaccessibility to basic goods and services including healthcare, and much more recently both insecurity in the workplace and shrinking nest eggs.
The Oaxaca blueprint
Based upon Hornick’s due diligence, Oaxaca proved to be a potentially attractive location to develop a prototype for what he initially labeled, when he first contacted me for advice in November, 2008, a “retirement community.” That initial characterization was probably meant to pique my initial interest without having me ask too many hard-to-answer questions. I fell for it, and have been enthralled ever since, hosting David at our home, introducing him to a number of professionals he could potentially tap to advance the project, and advising him regarding prospective plots of land.
Latin American locations have distinct advantages over Canadian and American prospective project sites. While remaining north of the Rio Grande may initially appear attractive because of language, ease of access for friends and family as well as for return visits, and cultural familiarity, Oaxaca was selected because of its own unique set of pluses:
1) Access via ground transportation is consistently being improved and upgraded through
Mexico’s system of toll roads, already extending from various locations along the the U.S. border, directly to the City of Oaxaca; and via more convenient
flight paths (such as being able to avoid
Mexico City by using Continental’s non-stop service from Houston, and Mexicana’s from Los Angeles);
2) Its highly agreeable climate, 12 months a year, attractive both on an individual personal level and for providing solar energy;
3) Proximity to Pacific Coast beach destinations such as Puerto Escondido and Huatulco;
4) A modest cost of living (i.e. labor, public transportation, entertainment, food and
taxes) relative to the U.S. or Canada, and even to the northern half of the country;
5) Availability of reasonably priced tracts of land, fertile enough and with sufficient rain and ground water to support partial self-sufficiency in terms of agricultural production;
6) A number of prospective development locations from which to choose, no more than a half hour’s drive from downtown Oaxaca, assuring proximity to restaurants and cafés, galleries, museums and other cultural institutions, as well as health care professionals and hospital facilities;
7) Its burgeoning expat community (including programs facilitated through the English language Oaxaca Lending Library) together with support from the Canadian and American consulates;

Local populations which welcome non-Mexicans, motivated by both a recognition that Canadian and American immigration translates into more work and higher wages for a relatively depressed economy, and an innate desire to embrace foreigners with open arms;
9) An understanding on the part of many of its professionals, trades and business people, and government, of what the project hopes to achieve, and the potential for the growth of more of the same in other parts of the state.
Each of the two “eco village” sites identified on Hornick’s website is equally attractive, meets all criteria, and easily facilitates advancing the set of common goals. The San Juan del Estado development consists of 25 acres and is about 30 minutes from downtown Oaxaca, and San Lorenzo Cacaotepec sits on 75 acres and is only 15 minutes from the city. Each is about 10 minutes from the town of Etla, known for its bustling Wednesday marketplace and production of dairy products, in particular the well-known Oaxacan cheeses (queso, and the more popular “string cheese,” known as quesillo).
Each of the two developments will contain 30 detached homes of about 1,000 square feet, the common house, sheltered walkways, green and garden areas, and its own sources of water and energy as well as waste-disposal facility, thereby providing for independence from the vagaries of municipal, state and federal government utilities.
Hornick emphasizes that with more than 300 sunny days per year, the communities will be able to generate and store electricity using photovoltaic technology. Hot water will be produced using solar water heaters. Interior temperatures will be kept comfortable all year round using passive solar heating and cooling techniques – such as constructing walls of locally mined stone (known as “cantera”), clay brick or adobe, depending on relative direction of the sun and prevailing winds.
But self-sufficiency has its limits, and to some extent dependence on the broader Oaxacan community will be a key element. Hornick plans to develop relationships with residents of nearby towns and villages who are interested in employment as housekeepers, gardeners and personal care aides. In addition, there’s a well entrenched practice in the state of Oaxaca whereby expats engage locals in an intercambio language arrangement, whereby a couple of hours a week informal meetings are held to help Oaxacans with their English and expats with their Spanish.
Hornick assures: “…both [locations] will have access to health care services via home care professionals who will live onsite and also via internet video teleconferencing with professionals at recognized centers of excellence.” For several years he has been advancing his own medical practice along such lines. Naturally, in today’s technological world he does not see distance, political boundaries, or differences in language and other aspects of culture, as impediments. “Of course there are challenges, but with perseverance they are readily overcome,” he continues. “Look at where I was just a few months ago, with merely an idea and my index finger pointed to a strange location on a globe – and look at where we now are.” Indeed, Hornick with his team of professionals (including Prometeo Sánchez Islas, Dean of the School of Architecture at a Oaxacan university) continue to work diligently on the project.
While visiting Oaxaca Hornick paid particular attention to indicia of cost of living, to the point of photographing sale prices in a supermarket (which attracted the attention of store management). He is currently attempting to pin down other costs such as transportation; medical insurance and other expenses; housekeeping, maintenance, landscaping and gardening (although he believes that it’s important for residents to participate in such activities for exercise and to maintain a sense of function and purpose). “I’m trying to come up with a ‘soft’ figure to enable interested parties to determine if they can survive on social security alone.” he reassures. But one thing is for certain – cost of living should be less than 50% of what most live on in the U.S. or Canada.
The horizon
Hornick plans to begin pre-selling houses at summer’s end or perhaps into autumn, at a small discount for those electing to participate early on in the project, as a kind of kick-start to the development. For him, and for most on his team, the motivation is pure altruism, having identified a sense of urgency on the part of many American, Canadians, and even Mexicans, and being in the enviable position of being able to address it in this fashion, without profit motive.
In a sense he’s a pioneer, having started with a dream for a better, more respectful, easier and self-fulfilling life for others in a new environment, virgin land to continue with the metaphor. He plans to lay down roots in Oaxaca, and carry on a medical practice, encouraging others of similar means to follow suit.
It was clearly different for those who had the fortitude and the instinct to find something better hundreds of years ago in opening up the American frontiers. Today there’s more of a necessity, yet with virtually no gamble involved. After all, investing between $100,000 and $150,000 to have a quality constructed new home, in a safe, secure southern climate, while at the same time substantially cutting expenses through supporting a sustainable living environment, shouldn’t be too difficult a lifestyle decision to make – especially for those who have already been contemplating change.
Alvin Starkman received his Masters in Social Anthropology in 1978. After teaching for a few years he attended Osgoode Hall Law School, thereafter embarking upon a career as a litigator until 2004. Alvin resides in Oaxaca, where he writes, leads personalized tours to the villages, markets, ruins and other sights, is a film consultant, and operates Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast, combining the comfort and service of a Oaxaca
hotel with the lodging style of a quaint country inn .
-- Mon Aug 24, 2009 7:58 pm --
Alvin Starkman M.A., LL.B.
Oaxaca has two main advantages over other southern destinations for Canadian snowbirds. First, you can explore one of the most culturally rich regions in Latin America, and then if the mood strikes, hop a plane, and in 35 minutes be relaxing on a sandy beach sipping margaritas. Second, there is enough of an expat presence in the city to enable a vacationer to spend part of the time with other Anglophones if inclined, and the balance with native Mexicans.
Oaxaca (wah – HAW – kah) is one of
Mexico’s southernmost states. Its capital, the city of Oaxaca, has a population upwards of 400,000, brimming with Old World charm. A UNESCO world heritage site, the city and central valleys are filled with pre-Hispanic ruins, 16th century churches, colourful market towns and craft villages, art galleries and museums, and renowned cuisine. In 2006 Oaxaca was named one of the ten most important travel destinations, worldwide.
Begin a visit by spending the first couple of days downtown, wandering the zócalo, the city’s central square, lined with outdoor cafés and balconied restaurants. There you’ll soak up the live music of mariachis, marimbas and Latin dance bands. From the street vendors you’ll preview the array of local crafts you’ll have an opportunity to purchase in the villages. Marvel at the exquisite colonial architecture, centuries old artistic wrought ironwork, and green limestone block construction.
Be sure to walk up Garcia Vigil street to Los Arquitos, the 18th century aqueduct where you’ll encounter quaint restaurants, dwellings, and a weekend organic market. Down the street drop by the home where the first indigenous president of
Mexico, Oaxaca’s own Benito Juarez lived. During his rule, Juarez succeeded in separating church and state, the ultimate marker being his declaration that all church marriages were invalid.
The Cathedral at the north end of the zócalo, La Soledad a few blocks west, and Santa Domingo a short walk up the city’s main pedestrian walkway, are the three must-see Dominican churches, in their grandeur and refurbished glory. The Santa Domingo Cultural Centre adjoining the church has impressive displays covering various historical periods, well laid out in several halls. The ethno-botanical gardens behind the complex, showcasing cactus, succulents and trees all native to the region, offers an English tour three times weekly. The Rufino Tamayo Museum of Pre-Hispanic Art is the other major museum for both archaeology aficionados and those with an eye for early aesthetics. It represents the collection donated by Tamayo, a grand master of Mexican art and one of the state’s native sons.
Oaxaca boasts over 50 galleries and artist studios, representing the fruits of a rich, longstanding tradition. One can easily spend an entire vacation exploring the artistic community. Not a week seems to go by when there is not a new opening, a benefit auction, or an opportunity to stop and chat with an impressive young artist and perhaps get invited to his workshop for a peek at his latest yet unfinished works. About a half hour’s drive outside of the city you’ll be awe-struck by the San Agustín Centre for The Arts, with rotating displays, housed in a magestic 19th century textile mill. Then tour the nearby hand-made paper factory. Both are located in a lush, panoramic rural setting, the brainchild of contemporary Oaxacan artist and philanthropist Francisco Toledo.
The state’s 16 distinct ancestral cultures, maintained through innumerable colourful fiestas throughout the year, have contributed to a broad diversity of gastronomic traditions, highlighted by unique ingredient combinations and distinctly flavoured dishes. The most well-known of the seven moles --- rich and unusually flavoured sauces --- is mole negro which combines tomato, a variety of chilis, and chocolate. Other regional plates include a dozen varieties of both sweet and zesty tamales; the tlayuda (an oversized crispy tortilla topped with refried beans, lettuce, tomato, cheese and a selection of beef, pork or sausage); the parrillada (a medley of grilled cheeses, meats and vegetables brought to the table in a sizzling hibachi ); and barbacoa (goat or sheep cooked in an in-ground oven). Then of course there’s Oaxaca’s more exotic fare, seasoned fried grasshoppers, a typical snack, and gusano worm, used to make salsas and as a chaser for spirits.
With such culinary greatness it’s no surprise that a number of cooking schools have sprung up over the last couple of decades. Novice cooks, seasoned chefs and restauranteurs from around the globe converge on the city to take classes. Internationally acclaimed Oaxacan chef Pilar Cabrera believes it’s important for students to get into the local marketplace where fresh ingredients are purchased, as part of the learning experience: “I first take my class to the market, where Oaxacans have traditionally bought their ingredients, to teach about the characteristics and variety of foodstuffs, substitutes for produce hard to find back home, and simply as a part of a full immersion cultural experience.” Ms. Cabrera offers private, semi-private and group lessons, as well as full-week intensive courses.
For your initial visit to the city, try to incorporate a Sunday. While most days of the week have rural town marketplaces, Sunday at Tlacolula is by far the best example of a bustling indigenous market with pageantry not to be missed. En route, the 2,000 year old cypress at Santa María el Tule, is worth a stop. It’s purportedly the world’s largest tree. Then enter the rug town of Teotitlán del Valle, and visit the home and workshop of Porfirio Santiago. Porfirio, together with wife Gloria and family, explain the manufacturing process, religiously followed in the village since 1535, starting with carding of raw wool, spinning, coloring using natural dyes from fruit, nuts, mosses, the añil plant (brilliant indigo), and the cochineal insect, and finally weaving intricate Zapotec designs on locally produced pine looms.
The Zapotecs have been one of the state’s pre-dominant cultures for over 2,000 years, and in many towns and villages remain a strong presence today, with native tongue still spoken. One of the vestiges of Zapotec society is the ruin at Mitla, encountered along the same route. Mitla is unique because of its multi-ton limestone lintels, estimated 100,000 hand carved stones used to form friezes in various geometric designs, the remains of pictographs which tell family genealogies, and its tombs. Mitla is second only to the most noted ruin in the state, Monte Albán, a 15 minute drive from Oaxaca.
On another day, head out from the city in a different direction, starting with a visit to the black pottery village of San Bartolo Coyotepec. At the workshop of Doña Rosa you’ll have an opportunity to learn from her son, Don Valente, who has been making pottery without a wheel and using only rudimentary tools produced in the village, for 70 years. Then at San Martín Tilcajete you’ll have an opportunity to see demonstrations of a pre-Hispanic woodcarving tradition. The families in this village carve fanciful animals and paint them with the most vibrant of colours. The workshop of Jacobo and María Ángeles is noteworthy for the quality of carving and use of natural paints made from tree bark and sap, pomegranate, honey, berries, leaves and other substances produced by mother earth.
You can easily spend a full day down the road in Ocotlán. Aside from its Friday market, visit the workshops of the Aguilar sisters who make painted clay figures depicting townspeople in their regional dress, market scenes, biblical stories and amusing sexual images. Their cousin, Apolinar Aguilar, hand-forges knives and cutlery utilizing the 16th century Toledo,
Spain technique. He works with only recycled metals and other materials, using a stone and clay hearth. His workshop was enlisted to make the swords used in the 1980s feature film Conan the Barbarian. In the centre of town you’ll have an opportunity to learn about another late great master of Mexican art, Rodolfo Morales. His works are on display in the town museum, and at his Foundation located in his family’s typical courtyard style colonial home. The most impressive example of his work is the large fresco mural which can be viewed in a government building at one end of the square.
There are several more sights you can visit along each of these and other routes. For example, consider the church and monastery at Cuilapam; the cotton textile village at Santo Tomás Jalieza where women weave using a back strap loom; a series of 16th century churches found along what’s known as the Domincan Route; numerous other ruins representing the remains of diverse cultures spanding millenia; cave paintings; petrified waterfalls and bubbling natural springs in an exquisite mountain setting at Hierve el Agua; and mezcal factories where you can witness the centuries old method of producing the spirit. The agave plant is baked in a pit and then pulverizing using a mule dragging a limestone wheel over it, in preparation for fermentation. A wood-burning still is utilized in the final phase of production. Once you get out of the central valleys, up into the mountains and then down into the tropical regions leading to both the Pacific and Caribbean, the variety of native crafts and traditions, marvels of nature and other sights become endless.
While cultural attractions are clearly a major draw to the region, the state is not without sand and surf. The Pacific beach resort towns of Huatulco and Puerto Escondido are a short
flight or a very scenic drive from the state capital, enabling vacationers to split their holiday time between two distinctly different experiences.
After an initial tour of the capital, consider more extended visits as part of a retirement plan. Contact with other Canadians and Americans is easily facilitated through the English language library, one of the largest in the country. Through it one can meet other expats in a relaxed and welcoming environment, and become part of the various outreach programs, card and other game groups, monthly dinner get-togethers, the garden club, frequent excursions, and much more. However, since expats reside throughout the various neighbourhoods and close-by villages, and not in any select community or development, those with winter residency in Oaxaca are readily accepted as part of the broader Oaxacan community.
The allure of Oaxaca is much more than the year round warm climate, modest cost of living and broad range of available activities … it’s the welcoming nature of its people.
Alvin Starkman received his Masters in Social Anthropology from York University in 1978. After teaching for a few years he attended Osgoode Hall Law School, thereafter embarking upon a successful career as a litigator until 2004. Alvin now resides in Oaxaca, where he writes, leads personalized tours to the villages, markets, ruins and other sights, is a documentary film consultant, and operates Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast.